Written by 
Christine GallarySenior Recipe Editor After graduating from Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, I worked at Cook’s Illustrated and CHOW’s test kitchens. I’ve edited and tested recipes for more than 15 years, including developing recipes for the James Beard-award winning Mister Jiu’s in Chinatown cookbook. My favorite taste testers are my husband, Hayden, and daughter, Sophie. […]
Why It Works Extended cooking and vigorous stirring makes cauliflower break down into a hearty sauce. Sicilian pantry staples—anchovies, raisins, pine nuts, saffron, and toasted breadcrumbs—strike a characteristic savory-sweet balance with North African influence. A sprinkling of toasted crumbs gives the finished pasta a crunchy topping. Sicilian cuisine is famous for its mix of savory, […]
Why It Works Cooking the seafood in stages ensures that all of the components are at their textural best in the final dish. Cooking the pasta risotto-style, a technique known as spaghetti risottati, means the spaghetti absorbs the flavor from the shellfish broth. Bottled clam juice intensifies the natural flavor of the steamed shellfish. Spaghetti […]
Why It Works Throwing an additional yolk in with the whole eggs increases the overall creaminess without exaggerating the egginess. The hot pasta cooking water and the residual heat from the toasted pasta indirectly and gently cook the eggs without scrambling them. Just a little garlic gives flavor depth to this quick and simple dish. […]
Why It Works A quick and easy scratch-made sausage captures the flavors of Norcia-style sausage, which is centered around garlic and white wine instead of the fennel seeds and dried chiles common in store-bought Italian sausage. Finishing cooking the pasta in the sauce ensures that the noodles are well-coated and al dente. Black pepper and […]
Why It Works A garlic and herb battuto gives this meatless dish plenty of savory depth. Taking time to cut the vegetables by hand into a consistent small dice ensures that they maintain their form and achieve the perfect texture, standing in as the “meat” in this vegetable ragù. Giving the onions a head start […]
Why It Works Prosciutto cotto is more mild and delicate in flavor than prosciutto crudo, so you can pack in thick cubes of the ham without making the dish overly salty. Reduced cream and starchy pasta cooking water form a velvety sauce without any need for making a roux. Adding frozen peas at the very […]
Why It Works Puréeing a portion of the chickpeas into the sauce base gives the dish body and creaminess. While this is not traditionally a tomato-heavy pasta, adding some tomato paste in with the aromatics gives the dish savory depth, as well as a touch of color. A little acidity in the form of white […]
Why It Works Homemade gnocchi that prioritize structure over ethereal lightness deliver great potato flavor while holding their shape. The melting properties of Fontina cheese means it can be incorporated into a creamy, smooth sauce without the need for a roux. In the Italian Northwestern Alpine region of Valle D’Aosta, there are no olive orchards, […]
Why It Works Slowly cooking down a large amount of onions in a covered pot releases their natural moisture content, which then works as the braising liquid for the beef in the ragù. No stock is required. A small amount of tomato paste gives the sauce a savory backbone, while a handful of cherry tomatoes […]