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One of the major perks of riding long-haul trains is the variety of ekiben available at train stations and on board. The word ekiben comes from “eki,” meaning train station, and “ben,” short for bento (boxed meal).
On December 2, three ekiben makers formed the Ekiben World Team (EWT). This joint initiative aims to introduce Japan’s unique culinary culture to the global market. Each of the participating makers has a history spanning over a century.
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First Stop: Zürich Central Station
Their first project will launch at Zürich Central Station in Switzerland during a limited-time event in February 2025. To meet local preferences and regulations, the meals will use locally sourced ingredients, with the exception of rice.
Ultimately, the team’s goal is to freeze and export authentic Japanese-made ekiben overseas. With domestic demand declining due to an aging population and low birthrate, the companies see this expansion as an opportunity to tap into the growing global enthusiasm for Japanese cuisine.
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Three Bento Masters
Three ekiben makers are leading the initiative. Hanazen, from Akita Prefecture, was founded in 1899 and is famous for its torimeshi (chicken rice).
Maneki Shokuhin, based in Hyogo Prefecture and established in 1888, introduced the makunouchi train bento (“between-acts box lunch”) in its folded box form. Originally sold during kabuki theater intermissions, these bentos evolved into a staple at train stations. A typical makunouchi bento includes rice and an assortment of small dishes like grilled fish, fish cakes, and pickles.
Matsuura Shoten, founded in 1922 in Aichi Prefecture, specializes in Nagoya-style dishes. Its signature ekiben features breaded deep-fried pork cutlet with miso sauce.
Hanazen’s president, Shuichi Yagihashi, has been appointed chairman of the Ekiben World Team (EWT). Maneki Shokuhin’s president, Noritaka Takeda, serves as vice-chairman.
During a press conference on December 2, Yagihashi shared his vision: “Until now, individual companies have ventured overseas on their own. Moving forward, as an organization, we aim to provide international customers with the joy of choosing from a diverse array of Japanese ekiben.”
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Tailored to Local Tastes
The team’s first project will be a limited-time ekiben shop in the underground shopping area of Zürich Central Station, Europe’s largest railway hub connecting countries like Italy and France. The shop will operate from February 5 to 27, 2024.
This project also commemorates the 160th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Switzerland and Japan. It is supported by the Embassy of Japan in Switzerland and Japan’s Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries to boost promotional efforts in the region.
A total of six varieties of boxed meals, with two from each company, will be available. Hanazen will offer its signature Torimeshi Bento and the Veggie Sushi Bento, a vegan option made entirely without animal-based ingredients.
Maneki Shokuhin will feature Gyumeshi (beef rice), made with lean Swiss beef, and a Makunouchi Bento, which includes classic Japanese dishes such as tempura and vinegared vegetables.
Matsuura Shoten will showcase Nagoya specialties, including Large Shrimp Tenmusu and Miso Katsu Ju (miso-coated pork cutlet over rice).
Each ekiben will come in special packaging with English labels and Japanese-themed illustrations.
Adjusted Prices
Prices will range from 12 to 22.5 Swiss francs (approximately $13 to $25 USD) per box. This reflects Switzerland’s higher minimum wage and cost of living. The pricing is about three times the cost of ekiben sold in Japan. The companies aim to sell 150 to 180 units daily during the promotion.
By 2026, the companies plan to obtain certification under the European HACCP food hygiene management system. This certification will allow them to export frozen ekiben made in Japan. These meals can then be thawed and sold locally in Europe.
Their long-term goal is to sell 15,000 ekiben annually across the continent.
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Author: Toshinari Nishimura, The Sankei Shimbun
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